Friday, 4 December 2009

Kapuscinksi

Just finished reading a book about the insane and corrupt rule and downfall of Haile Selassie...

some very funny quotes...


Z.S.-K.:
A year after the Gojam uprising - which by showing the furious and unrelenting face of the people stirred the Palace and threw a fright into the dignitaries (And not only them: we servants also started getting the creeps) -= a singular misfortunate happened to me: my son Hailau, a university student in those depressing years, began to think. That's right, he began to think, and I must explain to you, my friend, that in those days thinking was a painful inconvenience and a troubling deformity. His Unexcelled Majesty, in his incessant care for the good and comfort of his subjects, never spared any efforts to protect them from this inconvenience and deformity. Why should they waste the time that ought to be devoted to the cause of development, why should they disturb their internal peace and stuff their heads with all sorts of disloyal ideas? Nothing decent or comforting could result if someone decided to think restlessly and provocatively or mingle with those who were thinking. And yet my harebrained son committed exactly that indiscretion. My wife was the first to notice it. Her maternal instinct told her that dark clouds were gathering over our home, and she said to me one day, "Hailu must have striated to think. You can see that he's sad." That's how it was then. THose who surveyed the Empire and pondered their surroundings walked sadly and lost in thought, their eyes full of troubled pensiveness, as if they had a presentiment of something vague and unspeakable. Most often one saw such faces among students, who, let me add, were causing His Majesty a lot of grief. It truly amazes me that the police never caught the scent, the connection between thinking and mood. Had the made that discovery in time they could easily have neutralized these thinkers, who y their snorting and malicious reluctance to show satisfaction brought so many troubles and afflictions on His Venerable Majesty's head.

The Emperor, however, showing more perspicacity that his police, understood that sadness can drive on to thinking, disappointment, waffling, and shuffling, and so he ordered distractions, merriment, festivities, and masquerades for the whole Empire. His Noble Majesty himself had the Palace illuminated, threw banquets for the poor, and incited people to gaiety. When they had guzzled and gamboled, they gave praise to their King. This went on for years, and the distractions so filled people's head, so corked them up, that they could talk of nothing but having fun. Our feet are bare, but we're debonair, hey ho! Only the thinkers, who saw everything getting gray, shrunken, mud-splashed, and moldy, skipped the jokes and the merriment. They became a nuisance. The unthinking ones were wiser; they didn't let themselves get taken in, and when the students started holding rallies and talking, the nonthinkers stuffed their ears and made themselves scarce. What's the use of knowing, then it's better not to know? Why do it the hard way, when it can be easy? Why talk, if you're better of keeping you mouth shut? Why get mixed up in the affairs of the Empire, when there's so much to do closer to home, when there's shopping to be done?

Well, my friend, seeing what a dangerous course my son was sailing, I tried to dissuade him, to encourage him to participate in amusements, to send him on excursions. I would even have preferred that he devote himself to nightlife rather than to those damned demonstrations and conspiracies. Just imagine my pain, my distress: the father in the Palace, the son in the anti-Palace. In the streets I'm protected by the police from my own son, who demonstrates and throws rocks. I told him over and over again, "Why don't you give up thinking? It doesn't get you anywhere. fRoget it. fool around instead. Look at other people, those who listen to the wise - how cheerfully they walk around, laugh. No clouds on their foreheads. They devote themselves to the good life, and if they worry about anything it's about how to fill their pockets, and to such concerns and solicitations His Majesty is always kindly inclined, always thinking of how to make things smooth and cozy." "And how," asks Hailu, "can there by a contradiction between a person who thinks and wise person If person doesn't think, he's a fool." "Not at all," I saw. "Wise he still is - it's just that he has directed his thoughts to a safe, sheltered place, and not between rumbling, crushing millstones." But it was too late. Hailu was already living in a different world, by then the university, located not far from the Palace, had turned itself into a real anti-Palace where only the brave set foot, and the space between the court and the university increasingly resembled a battlefield on which the fate of the Empire was being decided.


Page 97

His August Majesty chided the bureaucrats for failing to understand a simple principle: the principle of the second bag. Because the people never revolt just because they have to carry a heavy load, or because of exploitation. They don't know life without exploitation, they don't even know that such a life exists. How can they desire what they cannot imagine? The people will revolt only when, in a single movement, someone tries to throw a second burden, a second heavy bag, onto their backs. The peasant will fall face down into the mud - and then spring up and grab an ax. He'll grab an ax, my gracious sir, not because he simply can't sustain this new burden - he could carry it - he will rise because he feels that, in throwing the second burden onto his back suddenly and stealthily, you have tried to cheat him, you have treated him like an unthinking animal, you have trampled what remains of his already strangled dignity, taken him for an idiot who doesn't see, feel or understand. A man doesn't seize an ax in defense of his wallet, but in defense of his dignity, and that dear sir, is why His Majesty scolded the clerks. For their own convenience and vanity, instead of adding the burden bit by bit, in little bags, they tried to heave a whole big sack on at once.

Thursday, 3 December 2009

Lost at Sea

Eid holiday celebrates the day when the truly merciful old-testament god let his loyal servant Abraham off the hook by explaining that he didn't really want him to murder his son, and he could kill a sheep instead.

Its explained in a great sketch by Mitchell and Webb...



On the eve of Eid, machetes and live wriggling sheep are on sale at every traffic light crossroads in Khartoum.

We headed to the coast for the long weekend.

Sudan Airways, apart from being blacklisted for safety, is known here as "Inshala Airways" meaning "God Willing" for its lack of punctuality. True to form, when we arrived at the airport at 10am we were told to come back at 5pm. In the end the flight was delayed almost 9 hours. The flight itself was fine, the aircraft was an Airbus 330 that seems to be recently acquired or borrowed from the Comoros Islands. We checked into our pretty basic beach hut (£50/night) at about midnight.

The wind howled all night. The next morning, against my better judgement, hypnotised by the promise of a great dive site, we set out into open sea in a small boat, and it was very choppy.

First dive was too short and not so good, except for a small school of big barracudas and a napoleon. Surface break of 20minutes between dives, enough time for seasickness to win as the boat fuel tank was knocked over by the waves. Fortunately we didn't loose any fuel, but lost the breakfast overboard. Second dive was great. A current swept us effortlessly along the beautiful coral top of an 800metre wall. No hammerhead sharks. We surface after an hour to find no boat in sight. Despite towing a marker buoy the boat hadn't followed us, maybe some communication problem as the guide didn't speak Arabic. We had to scramble onto the reef to escape the current; we were thrown around by the waves breaking over the top; then swam to the lighthouse heading for safety; we made it without major injuries to ourselves, just some coral scratches, and glad of our long 5mm wetsuits as our guide wearing only shorts got badly scratched and bruised, Eventually the boat saw us and met us at the lighthouse. After half an hour with the navy who look after the place, and avoiding the dodgy guy who was drooling over Norma in her body-hugging wetsuit, we were back in the boat for the return trip. It took an eternity until we saw land again. I was so sick I almost cried when I finally felt terra firma beneath my feet.

The wind got stronger the next day, so we didn't dive again.

The 'resort', a collection of sheds, on an outcrop of rock, isn't bad really. Its nice to be out in the middle of nowhere, with so much space around, the sea, the open skies, no traffic, no city, and distant hills in the haze of the horizon.

We had a good time, as several friends arrived. Firstly some guys who drove from Khartoum via the pyramids; looked like a good trip. Interesting conversations...I learned the alternative history of the breakup of Yugoslavia (fascinating read here that points the finger at external influences against a growing and successful socialist state during the cold war). The next day, our friends from the elections team arrived from Port Sudan, also on holiday, looking for a break by the sea.

We spent one night in Port Sudan, which turns out to be a rather nice looking town. The streets are wide, with pavements unlike most of Khartoum, and trees. The air is clean and the light is extra bright. One prominent feature is a shiney new container port - a giant machine that lifts and stacks containers very precisely as though they were light as lego bricks.

Flight back to Khartoum was ok, delayed or rather 'rescheduled' by only 4 hours, and reassuringly it was the same newish Airbus. Fortunately we were helped by the Station Manager of the airline, as we didn't have our e-ticket printout, and he even managed to get us on an earlier flight that should have been full.


Open space - view towards the hills.






The £50 sheds...getting away from it all...















everyone waded out to the island...risking the sting rays and lion fish and goodness knows what else...



"looks like we gut ourselves a reader"
...Sir Bill Hicks





...never alone with a mobile phone...